Sunday, September 23, 2012

Walking around the house with a colander

September
                                               "I went off my diet today."

I am going to a big food conference in October.  Most people would probably prepare by reading the conference materials, reading up on the region, mapping out how to approach the event.  I am preparing by going on a diet.  There is simply no way I am going to pass up sampling things such as Branza de Burduf (a Romanian cheese), Sir iz Mijeha (lit., cheese in a sack, from Bosnia and Herzegovina), Jabal Amel Freekeh (green wheat from Lebanon), Meurche (a cured meat from Bulgaria), Yacon (a fruit from Argentina)... and you get the idea.




But today, while walking around the house with a colander, I spotted about 20 bright, golden squash blossoms trying to stretch wide toward the sun while still remaining partially protected behind scratchy squash plant leaves. 







I plucked them all and hurried into the house while they were still wide open. 






With just a spritz of water to clean them off, a dab of egg wash and a slight pass of brown rice flour (optional), they landed in a saute pan and were done in 30 seconds. 




 







A pour of chardonnay was all it took to turn effort into sheer delight.








And now I'm back on my diet.

Thursday, July 19, 2012

   
           Common Sense(s) on the Farm


The Five Senses and the Four Elements, Jacques Linard, c. 1627 (p.d.)
 Most people, if asked which sense they would not want to lose, would probably say sight.  One of the best students in my graduate school classes was a blind man.  He worked his remaining senses in order to stay on a level playing field with sighted students.  The irony was that this approach vaulted him well above the rest of us. 

The following reminiscences follow in no special order, except that I have reserved sight for last.  I am painting a picture using the other senses first, to prove that sometimes sight can get in the way of real observation.  May it find its place with you too, on that level playing field. 

 

                                               The Sense of Smell

                             

Not all farm smells are of manure.  Some farm fragrances merit high standing in fine fragrance departments but are best (and often only) enjoyed at the source: the farm. 

     Almond blossoms in Spring
If you have never smelled almond blossoms in February in the Great Central Valley, you may want to add it to your list of things to do before you die.  Driving into the yard during the height of bloom and opening the pickup door is like submerging your head, Pooh-style, right into the honey pot.  The smell is intoxicatingly sweet.

To be fair, during the intensity of blossom time, a few more senses are heightened as well: the sense of sight has you noticing “Central Valley snow” -- the white blossoms that, when caught in the wind, float to the ground and speckle the orchards.  Hearing is heightened as you notice the honey bees pollinating the blossoms and you stay your distance from the hives in order not to be stung. 

              Ripe nectarines in Summer
I like picking nectarines in the heat of the day.  I don’t like the trickle of sweat rolling down my back while out in the fields, but I will tolerate it in order to smell the intensity of fragrance in a nectarine that has been warmed by the sun.  This is why you should never eat cold fruit.  If you must refrigerate it to keep it from spoiling, at least treat it like cheese and bring it to room temperature before serving; otherwise, you are depriving yourself of the enjoyment of huge amounts of fragrance, to say nothing of flavor.




         
Walnut leaves in Autumn
How I wish someone would bottle the fragrance of walnut leaves in autumn.  Sometimes when you want a stronger fragrance with an herb, you rub its leaves and then smell your fingertips.  Walking through a walnut orchard in early autumn, with the heat of the summer still lingering and the intensity of harvest now in the past, it is as though all that effort and energy has intensely rubbed the leaves for you, leaving behind one of the most haunting fragrances I know.  Walnuts have supposedly been around for over 7000 years.  Is history speaking to us through its leaves?





My mother's roses
Mother loved fragrant roses.  At the time of her death at age 84-1/2, she had 40 rose bushes adorning the yard around the house.  Every time I see (or smell) a rose, I remember Mother.  R.I.P. 

                       
                                The Sense of Touch


A whack upside the head














In the summer months as the fruit and nuts reach maturity and start bending the tree branches, it is easy to be so engaged in your work in the orchards that you don't notice that tree branch until WHACK! you've been whacked upside the head by it.   Whether they're nut branches or fruit branches, they're equally hard on the head.    It evokes images of those trees in The Wizard of Oz that attacked Dorothy on her way to Oz but so far, no tree has yet fought back when I tried to pluck its fruit, although they do grab my hat now and then.  Just imagine driving a tractor, even at low speed, through the orchards at this time.  At the end of the row, if you aren't defending yourself, you could easily look like Scarface.  Too bad Halloween is months away.

A prickly adventure
Prickly pears grow wild on the farm in the hot Central Valley.  We have the red Opuntia but there are yellow and green hued varieties as well.  They're from the cactus family and no kidding - just look at those spines.   There is only one way I'll pick these things and that is with tongs. 











You can gingerly slit them open using 2 knives and then pull back the skin and eat the fruit but it has seeds and is fairly mild so unless you want to put the fruit through a sieve and make jelly, it's a pretty nice fruit to leave on the cactus plant and just admire.


Even more prickliness
Behold the chestnut.   Brushing a chestnut burr with your bare hands in June or July feels like ripples along a fairly hard hairbrush.  Performing that same motion in autumn will net you a lot of scratches and an imagined encounter with a porcupine.  

We've had chesnuts on the farm for years. My dad probably planted them (as well as olives and figs) in memory of his father ("Nonno"), a farmer who came from Sicily where olives and figs and chestnuts are abundant.  The oldest (and largest) chestnut tree in the world still grows at the base of Mt. Etna.   Nonno, as many immigrants, came through Ellis island in 1904.  He became a single father of 7 little children after his wife died in childbirth so he brought the family west to California where he had a cousin.  I think working the soil gave this family great solace.  So much of what nourishes mankind is deeply rooted in the past.

Chestnut trees are not self-pollinating.  You need one tree to be a pollinator for the tree planted next to it so don’t try planting one tree and thinking much will happen.
The leaves on a chestnut have a sawtooth design and the blossoms or “flowers” are called catkins.  You can make flour from a chestnut but the taste is not for me.  I only eat chestnuts roasted.  Getting to that stage takes a bit of effort but it, like most pleasures in life, is worth it. 


Chestnuts usually fall from the tree when they’re ripe, either on their own or by a swift kick from the wind.  When the burrs hit the ground, if you’re lucky, the chestnut will pop out of the burr and its mahogany-colored shell will be very visible to you between the leaves.  For those burrs that hold on tight to the nuts, I position my feet on either side of the burr’s opening and push down.  Out pops the nut.  This is tedious, to be sure, and not the way a large commercial operation would do it, but it works for me.






You want to store chestnuts in a cool place (like the refrigerator) so they stay fresh.  Most nuts like to be in a cold environment once they’re off the tree.  When you’re ready to roast chestnuts, you want to cut a little “x” on them (called “scoring”); if you don’t do this before roasting them, you might get a small explosion because the nut will expand against the fairly durable outer skin when it is heated.  Then you just peel the skin away while the nut is still hot and eat to your heart’s delight.  I do this in wintertime.  We used to roast chestnuts over the fire, like in the Christmas Song, but nowadays, I use a pizza pan in the oven on the “roast” setting.  Some of the charm is lost that way, but none of the flavor.


                                 The Sense of Taste



True wealth
Some words are meaningless without adjectives.  Take WEALTH, for example.  It could mean what Warren Buffett or George Soros discuss at Sun Valley or Davos.  Financial wealth.  Or it could mean that type of wealth that engages all the human senses simultaneously and finishes in a state of great and memorable happiness.  True wealth. I get it by popping black mission figs into my mouth while sitting under the old fig tree with some cracked walnuts from the orchard. 


Picking figs is a bit like hunting for easter eggs, only on a tree.  The fig leaf is huge compared to the little fig - or even your hand. 

You can eat figs out of hand, dry them and eat them tossed with steamed chard, salt and pepper and olive oil (my Sicilian father's recipe).

Or make them into the most wonderful These-Aren't-Anything-Like-Store-Bought-Fig-Newtons cookies for Christmas time (my Sicilian grandfather's recipe).  The cookies use the same basic formula for making ravioli - (making the filling, rolling the dough, shaping the cookies) and takes all day.

                                              Some things are worth it.

The start of autumn

When apples start dropping from the trees, I start imagining apple cider simmering on the stove, warm stewed apples for dessert, apple pie, baked apples, an apple a day (or more).  We grow Golden Delicious, Fuji  and Gravenstein. 






Here is a super-simple salad made solely farm crops: Hachiya persimmons, pomegranate seeds and walnuts.

The thing about taste - it really is best to eat what is in season.  Nowadays, we have the "luxury" of eating crops all year long but they'll be flown in from other countries and there is an environmental issue with that.  There's also the issue of soul.  Anticipating things in life makes life more exciting.  Having everything whenever you want it is the surest way to dull the senses.



 The Sense of Hearing

When you are on a farm, sound seems more intense.  It's quieter out here so sound seems magnified.  Even the birds seem louder! 

My favorite sound on the farm is that of tractors starting up.  Although the most important tool on the modern farm seems to have become the cell phone, whenever you see a tractor, a farm is probably nearby. 



Walking through the orchards, you also hear the sound of church bells - reminiscent of European villages.  The local parish is just a mile down the     road so unless the tractor is roaring, the bells tell you the time all day long. 
Other sounds
During blossom time, the bees talk non-stop, probably alerting one another to where the best pollen is, kind of like we alert one another to store sales. 

At harvest time, dragonflies inhabit the clothesline (for some reason) and their buzzing is nerve-wracking.  They also look prehistoric to me so I give them a wide berth. 

Almonds are knocked from the trees during harvest by machine, and they rain down on the ground like the sound of hail. 


The Sense of Sight

It is a wonderful thing to be able to see and appreciate the blossoms in Spring, the ripening fruit in Summer, the nuts ready for harest (late Summer and early Autumn), the rainfall and tule fog (in Winter).  But beyond appreciation, working the farm involves constant monitoring on so many levels: monitoring soil hydration levels, searching the skies for a change in the weather that could help - or hurt - the crops, locating and repairing broken sprinklers, replacing trees that have been uprooted by heavy winds, and so much more.  Sight gives color and depth to the beauty around us.  Long live the family farm!
                                                                   What you can't eat, you can!
The old barn - built around 1927 
View from the back of the house, late Summer

Saturday, July 7, 2012

Canning Cherries



Step 1.  Why do this?
Some do it for purely economic reasons - to save money.  Great!  Others want that sublime pleasure of opening a jar of cling peaches in the dead of winter...makes springtime seem very near.
I do it to honor my mother's memory.  She taught all her kids to can every fruit we grew on the farm as soon as we could hold the peach pitter or canning knife without doing bodily harm.  (It was also free labor.)
I also do it because I want white sugar out of my system.  I'm experimenting with the bounty of the farm in fairly new ways from how traditional canning books suggest.  You can eat healthfully and enjoy great taste.


Step 2.  What tools?
As with all work, some tools are just plain necessary.  But innovation and invention play a big part in making work pleasurable too.  When canning cherries, you don't need pectin and you don't need a cherry pitter.  It's fun to spit out the pits while eating canned cherries.  And if you leave the pits in the cherries while canning, it'll only take you several hours, not several days, to get the canning done.

You do need a few tubs for washing the fruit, a canning pot, sterilized jars and lids, a funnel for getting the cherries into the jars without losing half of them on the ground, a ladle, a light syrup (or water with stevia - I use 16 tsp stevia to 16 cups water - it's not much but have you ever considered that ripe fruit should not need a lot of sweetener?), and of course, cherries!   I also use 1/8 cup of fresh meyer lemon juice per jar to stablize the color. 

It also helps to have a stove with burners that can hold the diameter of a canning pot.  I am grateful for our 1950's era Frigidaire stove that sits in the basement.  After 40+ years of canning, it still out-performs fancy noncommercial stoves.  For one thing, the burners are big enough to hold a canning pot.  Attention stove manufacturers:  bring back larger burners!  Non-canners will appreciate them too for better wok stir-frying, etc. 


Step 3.  The fruit
We're small farmers in Northern California who grow organic cherries (and other fruits and nuts).  We grow bing and ranier and what we don't eat or can, we truck to the Bay Area and sell at San Francisco farmers' markets.  The cherries are ripe in May/June. 
Each year, I pick about 60 pounds of cherries the night before canning them.  This will yield about 42 quarts, with a small bowl left over for eating fresh.  I can  solo and start to finish (sterilizing the jars to washing the final pot) takes about 9 hours, with 10 min. for lunch, if I'm even hungry after eating all those cherries.  Get a good night's sleep the night before starting something like this.

Step 4.  Production Central
Most folks will be doing this in the kitchen.  Unless you have air conditioning, start early in the day.  The stove heat and the sweat equity will affirm why, fairly early on.  I again am blessed to have 3 areas for doing this work: 

1/outside - where I wash and select the fruit (just pick out those cherries that are split - don't use those)
2/the main kitchen where the fruit is loaded into hot, sterilized jars.  I load jars to the dishwasher to sterilize and leave the door closed, pulling out just 7 jars at a time to load and can
3/the basement kitchen, which is the former main kitchen that our dad brilliantly decided to relocate to the basement when he remodeled the main kitchen in the 1970's.  The basement, which is always cool and has a cement floor and walls, is where all the canning processing takes place.  This is where that 1950's Frigidaire stove (also relocated from the main kitchen) resides.


Step 5.  Digging In.
Sort the fruit (don't use over-ripe fruit or split fruit), stem them, and plop them into tubs of water with a bit of fruit preservative (e.g., Fruit Fresh). 

Repeat this several hundred times.  This is where you put on a CD of Vivaldi - something allegretto or vivace is best because it makes the experience hugely more pleasant.  



Juice should not be spurting out of the fruit and staining your hands.  Over-ripe cherries are not a good choice for canning.  I separate out over-ripe fruit into a spaghetti pot and stew them with a bit of tapioca and stevia and water.  I pour the results into pudding glasses for an elegant dessert with a dollop of creme fraiche.


With split fruit, check for mold in the cracks.  Rain late in the season can cause that.  Throw those cherries out.  If there is no mold, the fruits are just as tasty as their more glamorous perfect kin, but should be saved for the fruit bowl.  Here is where beauty matters.  if you're spending all this time and effort and cost, you should be canning the best looking fruit.

Somewhere along the way, you will be saying "one for me, one for the tub."  It happens every year.  Just be aware to have the right medicine on hand if you end up with a stomachache.

Step 6.  The canning pot / loading the jars
The canning pot should be filled with water to the point where, when the jars are lowered into it, the water just covers the tops of the jar lids.  At this point in the process, the water should be simmering on a low boil. 


The lids should be simmering in a separate pot in order to moisten the seals on the lids. 

16 cups of fresh, pure water should be on a low boil in a third pot.


Now, put on rubber gloves. My canning pot holds 7 quart jars in the jar holder so I remove just 7 hot, sterilized jars from the dishwasher.  Work fast now so the jars stay hot. Strain the cherries from the tub and using the funnel, fill each jar.  Bang each jar gently on the table to settle the fruit so you can add more.  Gently pack the fruit - you don't want to squish it, but you also don't want it packed to lightly that it floats in the jar post-processing.  Leave 1" of room at the top of each jar. 

Add 1/8th cup of lemon juice to each jar.  I use fresh, thawed meyer lemon juice from our late brother Rocky's wonderful old tree in his backyard.  Strain the juice if you'd like a clearer juice, before adding to the jars.  Put each jar into the jar holder that comes with the canning pot and suspend the holder handles on the side of the pot.  This will allow the jars to reheat before you lower them into the water.  If you put cold jars into very hot water, they will possibly break.   Now turn the canning pot heat to high. 


Add 16 tsp. of stevia at this point to the pot holding the 16 cups of boiling water. 


Immediately fill each jar with the stevia water mix. 


Run a table knife along the edges of the jar to release air bubbles, but be sure not to cut through the fruit!


After each bottle is filled, wipe the rim with a clean, damp cloth to ensure a good seal. 


Put a lid from the simmering pot onto a canning ring and tighten both on the jar. 


Put this jar back into the jar holder and work your way around the pot until each jar is filled and sealed.  (Note: for each batch of 7 jars, I start with a fresh pot of 16 cups of water.  I don't like left-over stevia to simmer while I prepare the next batch of jars.  Remember to add the stevia to the boiling water just before ladling the water into the jars.)

Step 7:  Processing
Now lower the jar holder into the pot and assure that the water completely covers the jar lids. 


The water may stop boiling for a few minutes.  As soon as it resumes boiling, process the fruit for 20 min. 

Step 8:  Sealing / Storing
Put your gloves back on and gently lift the jar holder up out of the water and suspend it on the pot by its handles.  Remove the jars to a clean cloth-covered or paper-bag covered surface to cool. 

I like to write the year on each lid with a crayon while the jars are still hot. 

Listen over the course of the day for pops, which means another jar has sealed.  If a jar doesn't seal in a few hours, I simply push down on the lid and sometimes, with that little bit of help, I'll hear it seal and pop.  Note: if the jar does not seal, you'll either need to store it in the refrigerator and use it up within a week, or re-process it with a new lid.  Note that this latter approach may result in over-cooked fruit. 

Once the jars are cool, store them in a pantry area that is away from light. 

Canned cherries are good for a few years, in case it takes you that long to recover and try this again!